Review: Copeland's Shreveport renovation nears completion, food continues tradition at E Bert Kouns near Youree

Copeland's, Shreveport , a photo by trudeau on Flickr.

Eggplant Pirogue (fried eggplant slices surrounded by cream sauce and pasta), is a sumptuous, creamy-crunchy, smile-provoking meal.

Based on a lunch enjoyed this week, Eggplant Pirogue at the midday price of 9.99 is a reason that New Orleans-minded diners will include Copeland's in holiday celebrations.

My lunch was delayed by the arrival of an unusual number of large parties, said the manager, so the wait time was offset by complimentary biscuits. Copeland's biscuits are virtually the same as those of Popeyes. They were light and high and managed an aura of both sweetness and saltiness.

Additionally, the meal was sealed with complimentary cheesecake. This gourmand chose the giddily foolish chocolate version. The body was wealthy with goodness; the crust was roegasmic.

Dishes that called my name from the menu included red beans and rice with andouille (6.99) and tomato-basil chicken (8.29).

The recent revamping of Copeland's has not been radical. Today it is perhaps a more open restaurant than ever, with sight lines that enable you to see more of your fellow diners in the main room. The banquet room has large windows facing Bert Kouns and looked like a photographer's dream.

Does stepping into the mahogany world of Copeland's enable one to escape the humdrum world of Shreveport-Bossier?

You'll have to answer that one.

Copeland's hours, menu and online ordering.

Highly recommended.